NA Miata LED Bulbs in H4 Housings *Review*

That was a long title... almost as long as the amount of time I spent trying to find information and reviews of other people who have tried using LED H4 style Bulbs in their NA Miata. My H4 halogens were starting to die and proper lighting is very important to me. When you're in a car as small as a Miata, it's vital for other cars to know of your presence. And when you and your pals are tearing up a twisty mountain road while delivering tofu for your dad's tofu shop, you need to see what's ahead of you without blinding other drivers. With limited information about other Miata driver's experiences with LED headlight bulbs, I decided to try them out first hand.

Purchasing the Headlights

Not all LED headlight bulbs are created equally. They come in many different brightness levels, LED patterns, with or without a cooling fan, etc. It's worth noting that most LED headlights are near the 6000k color range, which produces a very white light.

I chose these Atshark LED headlight bulbs because they were rated at 3600 Lumens/bulb (7200 Lumens combined). Also the LED chips are positioned so they let light out evenly around the bulb, which is similar to a halogen bulb. I opted for a bulb that came with cooling fans. Some LED bulbs come with only heat sinks, and some reviews complained about the rear portion of the bulb getting very warm.

This bulb was also rated highly and had great customer reviews. Although this product did not have the highest amount of stars, it received detailed reviews with evidence and insight, which I took into consideration when choosing this bulb.

*Notes on Fitment*

  • Make sure you have H4 headlight housings before purchasing LED bulbs for your Miata.
  • Ensure the bulbs you are purchasing are H4 style bulbs.
  • Every H4 housing will be a little different from brand to brand. The housings used in this review are Hella's 7" Diameter E Code housings.

Installation

*This is meant to serve as a write up on my installation experience. Every LED Headlight bulb is somewhat different. Attempt at your own risk.*

Installation is exactly replacing bulbs with regular halogen bulbs, but with a few extra (but simple) steps. If you know how to use a screw driver and are able to plug and unplug something from an electric socket, you are capable of changing headlight bulbs in a Miata. There are many DIY threads on how to replace NA Miata headlight bulbs so I won't cover that; I will go through the extra steps that have to be taken when installing LED bulbs.

The LED bulbs I chose came with a big fan assembly to cool the back of the bulb. The H4 bulb retaining clips will fit around the fan.

1) The LED bulbs also came with its own wiring harness and a module built into the wiring harness. First plug the wiring harness from the new bulbs into the OEM headlight harness. I thoroughly wrapped the three connections on my headlights with electrical tape. This was done to prevent excessive water from going on the connections and corroding them.

I ended up tightly wrapping the three connections in electrical tape afterwards. 

2) Since new bulbs add length to the wiring harness, you can fish the excessive wiring back into the engine bay. Leave some slack in the wire because you have to keep in mind that the headlights need to open and close.

3) I didn't want the new headlight's wiring module to be flopping around, so luckily there's a pre-existing hole in the module that allowed me to bolt it to a pre-drilled hole in the headlight frame.

Wiring module is bolted to the side of the headlight assembly using a pre-existing hole and an M6 bolt and nut.

4) Plug everything else back in and clean up the lengthy wiring harness. I know this isn't a 240sx, but I used zip ties to neatly tuck and secure the wiring off to the side. Remember to keep enough slack so the headlights can open and close without snagging the wires.

 

testing out the new lights

Right off the bat, the LED bulbs are much brighter. Before driving, I aimed the headlights downward to prevent blinding oncoming drivers. I ended up aiming them back up and had lots of people flashing their high beams at me as a complaint of my super bright lights. I don't blame them; the LED's were even illuminating the trees over the road!

After aiming them back down again, I went for a casual drive on a local twisty road. This twisty road was my baseline because I vividly remember driving this road on a regular basis with my halogen bulbs. My biggest complaint I had of my halogen bulbs in H4 housings was that the side vision wasn't the greatest. The LED bulbs provided much better side vision and it was easier to see farther around each corner. I should add that I only adjusted the up and down aim of the lights, not the side to side aim.

Sides of the road are better illuminated with the new LED bulbs.

The lights provided better side aim probably due to the fact that the light scatters in different directions in a greater amount compared to halogen bulbs. This fact remains true with the light that shines directly in front of your car. The LED light does scatter and doesn't aim well. Like I said earlier, with the lights aimed too high up I was blinding people and illuminating the trees above the road. I brought the headlights back down to compensate but then I couldn't see as far down the road as before. 

Driving down a road with low beams. (Note how far the light aims after bringing them to a less blinding height.)

Same headlight adjustment with high beams. Don't focus on the yellow sign, the car was moving very slow between both pictures.

final thoughts

The LED's definitely perform better than the old halogen bulbs. My only complaint is that finding the right aim setting is like a balancing act just because the lights are so much brighter and more prone to blinding oncoming drivers. I was able to find a happy median adjustment where I could see down the road without blinding oncoming drivers. Although if you plan on getting LED headlight bulbs for your H4 housings, I would recommend doing a projector retrofit or purchasing housings with real projectors already built in. With projectors, you'll have an easier time aiming the bulbs and get the most performance out of your LED headlights. This is due to the fact that good quality projectors have a much better cut off compared to conventional halogen housings. 

Yes they are that bright.

July 9th, 2016- Speed Academy BADASS 2000 Custom Battery Tie Down

Wow March was the last time I updated the blog? I've been spending too much time on our Facebook page! Anyways... if you've been following along, you might remember that R Theory Motorsports was working with Speed Academy to make a new custom battery tie down bracket for their BADASS 2000 project car. Well, that project is complete and it's now on the car. Check out the video in the link below!

https://youtu.be/5w_XWcRA_oo?t=5m27s

 

March 20th, 2016- Miata Dashboard Refinishing Tips and Tricks

Hey Guys and Gals,

Just wanted to let you know one of my friend's, Jeff, made some great instructional videos on miata dashboards. In the video's he shows you how to remove, refinish, and reinstall an NA Miata dashboard. He did the video's on his NA Eunos Roadster (It's what miata's were called in Japan), but it is essentially the same process as any NA Miata.

If you are planning on removing your dashboard, check out the video since it's a great guide on this process!

 

Video 1- Removing the Dash

Video 2- Refinishing the Dash

Video 3- Reinstalling the Dash

February 29, 2016- Making the BADASS2000 Battery Tie Downs

If you have been following our Facebook page, Instagram, or Email Subscription, you might have heard that R Theory Motorsports took on a project to help contribute to Speed Academy's BADASS2000 build. Long story short, I talked to Dave from Speed Academy and I designed a cool looking battery tie down for his S2000, He loved the design, so it was up to me to bring that design into a reality. I took lots of pictures along the way to give you a behind the scenes look at how parts are machined; specifically this BADASS battery tie down!

3D Model of what I dreamed up in Solidworks.

First I started out with a raw block of aluminum, a little bit bigger than the bracket in all 3 dimensions. I didn't take any pictures of the raw aluminum, but it pretty much looks like this.

Photo from: http://beatty-robotics.com/wp-content/uploads/Metalbot_Stock.png

The block of aluminum is put in a vise that I set up in the CNC  3 Axis mill, then it's quickly roughed into shape. It isn't cut to the exact sizes yet.

It is roughly similar to the finished product. Needs a bit more work.

After being roughed out, the sloped ends of the bracket were milled.

Starting to look close to the finished product!

If you look closely at the last two images, you can see a raised section of aluminum in the middle of the bracket. This is where the BADASS2000 characters will start to appear with some more machining. A very small tool starts to slowly cut away material to reveal the coolest feature of the part.

After all that magic happens, the two holes on each end are drilled and the part is taken out of the machine and flipped over to mill the backside.

When milling a part, ideally you program the machine to remove all sharp edges and burrs to create a nice looking part and minimizing time deburring a part by hand. But sometimes unusual geometry doesn't allow you to use your CNC tools to deburr the part. So on this part, most of the edges were deburred with files and sand paper. Then put into the sandblaster to give it a nice uniform look.

Check out those nasty burrs!

The part at the top is almost fresh out of the machine, very minor deburring was done. As you go further down the chain, more deburring was done, and eventually the last step which is sand blasting.

This is what they look like after sand blasting. After this step, they're off for black powdercoat at Stripping Technologies Inc.

After powder coat the entire part is covered in a beautiful semi gloss black powder coat, including the top of the letters. This is not what we want, so I'll show you what I did to fix that. I put the brackets back into the mill, and used a tool with very sharp cutting edges to skim the top of the letters. This exposed a very beautiful aluminum face making each character glimmer in the light.

Before and after skimming the top of the letters.

And that folks is a behind the scenes look at how these parts were made. If you thought it was interesting, I would love to get more media in the future like video on how parts are made.

December 31st, 2015- Celebrating One Year of R Theory Motorsports

I realized I'm a few days late posting this, but better late than never. Man, has a year flown by so fast. Lots of ups and downs. Lots of  new challenging aspects of running a business that I've never experienced before. I started R Theory Motorsports because I love cars, I love racing, I love designing parts and engineering. So why not combine the two? I soon learned there was so much I didn't know about running a business. I was forced to adapt and learn about all the behind the scenes paper work nonsense.  It was fun.

I started this business on my own, but there is no denying that I wouldn't have made it to the one year mark without the help of the numerous friends, family, mentors, and amazing customers.

Special Thanks to:

Graphic Designers: Shaun, Jessica and Jeff
Photographers: Markis, and Andrew
People who helped test fit parts on their cars: Richard, Michael, Anthony, Jeff and Brandon
Business Mentors: Kaval, and Ravi

Biggest thanks to my buddy Kris who thought of the name R Theory Motorsports. It started out as a joke. It grew on me and I decided that name was the one. My full name is "Rajan Thiru". Take the first letter of my first name and my last name and you get: "R. Thiru". Which sounds like "R Theory".

If I didn't mention your name under one of the above categories and you feel like you need recognition, feel free to send me a message in private. Politely call me a selfish prick and demand that I add you to the list. Because you deserve the recognition! And just because your name isn't on the list, doesn't mean I don't appreciate your help. I am truly grateful of your help and I haven't forgotten what you have done. 

Again, thank you to the MANY people who supported R Theory Motorsports LTD. I look forward to bigger and badder things that are coming this year!

Next year I'll get a real cupcake.

Next year I'll get a real cupcake.